Reviews of Esab Sentinel and Optrel Crystal 20

04:42 PM

I am looking at getting a new helmet. I know the Crystal 2.0 is top of the line. I know there are other helmets that are also top of the line.

If two unlike helmets have the rating 1/i/one/1, should they look pretty much the same?

At that place are at present many companies that merits True Color. I know that many companies buy the lens and industry the shell.

I don't want to spend a fortune on a hood, as much as I'd like a Crystal 2.

I had 2 Harbor Freight Blue Flame hoods. I bought an upgraded hood that had a rating of 1/1/i/1. I have been using that for a couple of years. It was recommended in 1 of the threads on this forum. Works fine. Never been flashed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073PY7F68/

I tried a Harbor Freight ArcSafe, and information technology was not whatever clearer than my other hood. Very comfy headgear though.

I utilize a cheater lens in all of my hoods, and reading glasses.

I'd like to get a improve view. If I upgrade from the one I linked to a higher place to a 1/1/ane/i/ with Truthful Color, will it exist that much clearer?

Is a 1/one/1/1 helmet the same as True Color?

Cheers very much for taking the fourth dimension to read my questions.

Steve

I had a blue flame helmet until the batteries died and I decided information technology was fourth dimension for something different and ameliorate.

I bought the HTP Striker Supreme Helmet. ~$xc i/ane/1/1 Clarity. Very calorie-free weight. Very adjustable. It accommodates a cheater lens and I wear a filter respirator under the hood.

https://www.usaweld.com/Striker-Supr...-p/supreme.htm

10:09 PM

Quote Originally Posted by Steve007 View Post

I am looking at getting a new helmet. I know the Crystal 2.0 is pinnacle of the line. I know at that place are other helmets that are also top of the line.

If ii dissimilar helmets have the rating 1/i/one/ane, should they look pretty much the aforementioned?

There are now many companies that merits Truthful Colour. I know that many companies buy the lens and manufacture the beat.

I don't want to spend a fortune on a hood, equally much equally I'd similar a Crystal 2.

I had two Harbor Freight Blue Flame hoods. I bought an upgraded hood that had a rating of 1/1/ane/1. I have been using that for a couple of years. It was recommended in 1 of the threads on this forum. Works fine. Never been flashed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073PY7F68/

I tried a Harbor Freight ArcSafe, and it was not any clearer than my other hood. Very comfortable headgear though.

I use a cheater lens in all of my hoods, and reading glasses.

I'd like to go a better view. If I upgrade from the one I linked above to a i/1/1/ane/ with True Color, volition it be that much clearer?

Is a one/1/ane/1 helmet the same as Truthful Colour?

Give thanks y'all very much for taking the time to read my questions.

Steve

helmet ratings are non indicative of "true color".

The ratings specify:

Optical course (accuracy of vision)
Diffusion of lite grade.
Variations in luminous transmittance grade (calorie-free or nighttime areas within the lens)
Angle dependence on luminous transmittance class

none of those have to exercise with color. They take to exercise with the qualities of clarity that accept be separated into four categories.

Equally an owner of the crystal 2.0, I cannot say plenty positive things about information technology. Car mode is awesome, and and then seamless I don't even realize it's switching on me. Dearest it!

x2 on the crystal. My brother couldn't tell the difference between a photo of my backyard with just my telephone camera and through the lens at shade 2. They looked a little different but yous wouldn't have expected information technology to be and then natural. The auto mode is nice, but I do arrange it a little every bit information technology can exist set +/- two shades. The biggest requirement I had was that information technology is very calorie-free weight. It is much lighter than the miller aristocracy and just very slightly heavier than the inexpensive auto miller helmet that came with my 211 inverter. I was very happy to find out that the crystal 2.0 was a top of the line helmet and was likewise ane of the lightest.

Years ago, I had an optrel satellite and liked the controls on the outside, but information technology died and I got the aristocracy (pre digital). My brother'south digital elite is much heavier than my old elite and a atomic number 82 brick compared to the crystal 2.0. Having external controls again is priceless.

Check with local welding supplier on which hoods they carry. Do a test bulldoze and see what y'all similar. Hopefully a supplier by you has helmets to try.
Check the Miller ClearLight or Lincoln Viking.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am interested in a optrel crystal 2.0 just I am concerned that it only goes to shade 12.

Has anyone used it for 300+ amp tig welding, and is it nighttime enough?

The ratings don't mean all that much IMHO.

Two better hoods than the crystal are esab scout a50, and 3M 9100Xi

The crystal has probably the best lens out of whatever of them, just the hood itself isn't smashing compared to 3M/esab.

You lot never come across the esab or speeglas used in positional piece of work, just bench welding. At that place'south a reason for that. They are heavy and won't stay on your caput. I paid the large bux for the speedglas and threw it away soon after, couldn't use it on site out of position. My lws says esab is heavy as well. Optrel is light and stays on my head all positions. I use the e684, information technology'southward just the all-time. Never tigged 300amps. 200 is the almost I've needed for what I do and my hood set to 10 mostly.

Quote Originally Posted by Woznme View Post

You never run into the esab or speeglas used in positional work, only demote welding. There'south a reason for that. They are heavy and won't stay on your head. I paid the big bux for the speedglas and threw information technology abroad soon after, couldn't employ it on site out of position. My lws says esab is heavy too. Optrel is light and stays on my head all positions. I utilize the e684, it's just the best. Never tigged 300amps. 200 is the most I've needed for what I do and my hood ready to 10 mostly.

That is absolute rubbish.
i. the esab scout is one of the lightest on the market place, and is great for positional piece of work - the hood flips around your head, not up in forepart.
2. the 3M 9100 is one of the almost widely used hoods in UK industry, they are bombproof reliable, well congenital and very very comfortable.
iii. The optrel in comparison has a bang boilerplate headgear which isn't a patch on either Esab or 3M.

Are you lot sure you had a current model 9100? The basic speedglas models are rubbish.

Haven't tried the sentinel, only going by what my lws said. I went in at that place to try one, they had plenty in stock, they warned me away from it. The speedglas was not the current clearview hood just just before, I'll look it upward and go dorsum to you. Funny I went into my lws to complain about information technology, cussing. The speedglas rep happened to exist in the store at the time listening. He offered to aid adapt the headgear. I lay downwardly on my side to simulate difficult weld position. He could not prevent the hood from slipping. Also did not offer to accept it dorsum, that'south why I threw it abroad.
Maybe the poms have bumpy bony heads that the gear can grip on to.

Yous're correct almost the previous model - it doesn't suit every caput. We tend to specify air-fed with the grinding flip-upward visors now, so hoods falling off isn't really an issue.

In fact I'd say the watch is notwithstanding a better fit on my head than a electric current 9100xi.

The hood was a 9100XX. The latest ones are nevertheless heavy. The flip upwardly visor way is worse because it sits further frontwards from the face increasing the moment forcefulness on the headgear when lying sideways. So I stand past my comments. It's a proficient hood for when standing or bench piece of work like "industry" does in the shop. On site in all positions it'due south a fail. I would rather have a $20 passive bucket hood than a speedglas any twenty-four hour period.

fair enough fella

horses for courses, you takes your choice etc.
I've had folk in small confined spaces welding with them, these guys were just used to them by then. Merely difference was we took the battery pack off them and fed them breathing air direct from a compressed air mains.

12:46 AM

Quote Originally Posted by 2strokeforever View Post

I am interested in a optrel crystal ii.0 but I am concerned that it merely goes to shade 12.

Has anyone used it for 300+ amp tig welding, and is it nighttime enough?

I'll soon exist table to tell you.

The only downwards-side to the Crystal two.0 is that information technology is i/1/1/2 rated. You tin can see the angle dependence as you stare at an object while you rotate your head and view across the lens. At that place are some slight wavy spots. Not that they are all that detrimental as you likely wouldn't exist doing that during welding. But I was using it today with some low-amp stick welding @ 55A. Hoe-Lee-Fawk. Immediately put upwards my e684 for sale on the forums.

Quote Originally Posted by Oscar View Post

Immediately put up my e684 for sale on the forums.

Many people actually like the e684.

And with the ane/1/i/i lens, I would have thought they would take been very similar.

Are you selling the e684 because the Crystal is that much clearer, or more than comfortable?

I was thinking that any hood with True Colour and 1/1/one/one would look the aforementioned.

09:44 AM

Quote Originally Posted by Oscar View Post

The just down-side to the Crystal 2.0 is that it is 1/1/i/2 rated. You tin can meet the bending dependence every bit you stare at an object while you lot rotate your head and view beyond the lens. At that place are some slight wavy spots. Not that they are all that detrimental equally you likely wouldn't be doing that during welding. But I was using it today with some depression-amp stick welding @ 55A. Hoe-Lee-Fawk. Immediately put up my e684 for sale on the forums.

Interesting...

I have idea for myself for the last twelvemonth or so that the "perfect" optical rating one/one/ane/ane is pointless in real life at the elevation terminate of the market, as IME the less-measurable factors make more difference... like the color filter and contrast. It's less about pure low-cal transmission, and more about getting your eyes to see what the puddle is doing.
As well, once y'all've cleaned the lens a few times and polished micro scratches into it, the optical rating doesn't hateful annihilation anyway haha

TBH I didn't think there would be SUCH a cracking difference between them though!

The e684 didn't really inspire me when I looked at information technology, but I also didn't spend much time with information technology. I'd like to try a Crystal two.0 to see what the hype is about

Quote Originally Posted by Steve007 View Post

Many people really like the e684.

And with the ane/1/one/1 lens, I would have idea they would have been very similar.

Are y'all selling the e684 because the Crystal is that much clearer, or more comfy?

I was thinking that any hood with True Color and 1/ane/1/1 would wait the same.

The Crystal 2.0 is not i/i/ane/1. It is 1/1/1/2 as I mentioned. (or were you referring to the e684?). Y'all accept to remember what the numbers stand for. The last "1" has zippo to practice with clarity. Yes, the Crystal 2.0 is that much clearer, fifty-fifty though the e684 is awesome in it'south own respect.

This is my take on the number 1 for the ratings. I *remember* that once a helmet meets the minimum criteria for a "ane" in that category, it is obviously rated every bit such, just that does not make it identical to another "ane" rated helmet. One "1-rated" hood could exist vastly superior to another "1-rated" hood, but since there is no rating "ameliorate" than "one", such equally "0" or whatever, they they appear on-newspaper to be equivalent. Then in this respect the rating system is flawed because where practice they go from "1" to "better than one"? 0? -ane? As y'all tin imagine, lens technology will go on improving, so in 10 years in that location could exist a hood 10x better than the Crystal 2.0, but since both both met the minimum requirements for "one's", say in the first two categories, they would be rated identically, when in reality one would be drastically better than the other.

Quote Originally Posted by Steve007 View Post

I was thinking that any hood with True Color and one/1/1/1 would look the aforementioned.

While the helmet x/x/x/x ratings are a standard, I don't recall the whole "true color" thing is. Therefore I can make a helmet and telephone call information technology "true colour" and it could be very different from other true color helmets. Nothing would stop me from calling it "true color", unless that is a trademarked name. Then I would just telephone call it "existent color" or something to that effect, and nothing would stop me from doing so. It's kinda similar saying, "oh these two vehicles are called "trucks", so they must bulldoze/perform exactly the aforementioned fifty-fifty though they are from two completely dissimilar manufacturers".

I was referring to the e684.

Every bit they say in Westerns. "In that location is much wisdom in your words".

Thank you very much. Judge I'chiliad going to have to find a Crystal two.0 to check out.

Thanks again.

Quote Originally Posted by 2strokeforever View Post

I am interested in a optrel crystal two.0 only I am concerned that it merely goes to shade 12.

Has anyone used it for 300+ amp tig welding, and is it night enough?

So I fired up the Invertig 400 to examination out the Crystal ii.0 at high-amp TIG. Right now it will output a max of 350A since information technology is still on one-Φ power. I tested 250A, 300A, 350A. At 350A, the tip of the tungsten is notwithstanding discernible, only just barely. I adopt to see the tip of the tungsten 100%; I don't like it when information technology is obscured by the arc low-cal being too vivid.

For my optics, I would say 350A on DC is the absolute max I'd want to use with the 2.0, unless you put on some sunglasses. It is tolerable for a little bit, but I suspect it might be likewise bright later most thirty seconds or so. So IMO, the Crystal 2.0 has a realistic upper limit of 275-300A DC, depending on your eyes. I haven't tried aluminum yet, merely since it is usually brighter, I'm going to guesstimate 250-275A for AC TIG. I don't think that'south big deal for the clarity y'all are getting. I'm just gonna order some cheapie polarized sunglasses off ebay to see if I tin get away with 400A later when I have 3-Φ; but have to add a little darkness to information technology.

Great idea on the sunglasses.
Really looking forward to hear how it goes with aluminium.

Cant go wrong with the Lincoln Viking. Just got one for TIG and I love it..

Quote Originally Posted by 2strokeforever View Post

Bang-up idea on the sunglasses.
Really looking forward to hear how it goes with aluminium.

Copypaste from my other thread in the Prophylactic Forum:

Got some inexpensive $10 polarized sunglasses. Just been doing plasma cutting, simply they seem to exercise the trick to darken everything +two shade levels. I usually plasma cutting at Shade half-dozen, merely wearing the sunglasses (first, before I put on my regular prescription eyeglasses, every bit the other way effectually doesn't work well for whatever reason), I ended upwardly turning it all the way downwards to shade iv, and it appears identical to Shade 6-earlier-the-sunglasses. Of grade y'all do lose the ultra-light undarkened state because you are wearing the sunglasses, but I have a feeling that 300A+ welding will no longer be an outcome. Besides the true-color artifact stays unaffected with sunglasses. Everything is only as crisp and clear as before, just approx ~two shades darker.

I'm hoping to endeavour it out with TIG and MIG this weekend with the sunglasses.

11:49 PM

Quote Originally Posted past sapperb View Post

Deceit get wrong with the Lincoln Viking. But got one for TIG and I love it..

The Viking is a great hood; I've used one for a couple of years. Actually liked information technology better than the E684.

Just the Crystal 2.0 is better than both.

Hither is a comparison between the three hoods. The camera would not focus well on the weld dewdrop, just compare the clarity on the metal near the weld. You tin can actually tell the difference in clarity of the Crystal ii.0.

All video'due south were taken using the same camera, and shot merely a few minutes in-between one another.

Of foremost importance whatever you chose is exist certain it has flames and/or a least i skull. If a skull and flames, the flames need to wrap around the skull, alarmingly. All of these of import details will insure your success as a weldor...

I hateful really, how many times can this become flogged?

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